Day Night Fried Kway Teow, #02-41, Block 163 Bukit Merah Central Food Centre, 10am to 8pm, closed on Thursdays
The line for this one-dish specialist is visible from across the hawker centre and it is usually a 20-
minute wait. The master cook does about two portions at a go to maintain consistency. He fries it fast and furious and smokes up the glass-enclosed stove and wok area.
The noodles are not overly sweet, are smooth and moist and boast a comforting degree of savouriness from perhaps touches of miso or oyster sauce blended with the black sauce. The wok hei is intact but the cockles are small and pathetic (a national supply issue).
The $4 portion is big enough for a full meal or snack for two. it is best to go past 1.30pm, when the lines are more bearable.